For those of you who don’t remember, just a few weeks ago Demna Gvasalia announced that Vetements would be ditching the regular runway show for the foreseeable future (maybe even forever) in favour of presentations and performances instead; the main aim to not become complacent and stay as a frontrunner in terms of innovation.
Yesterday, the SS18 ‘no show’ lookbook was presented in a Paris car park on large posters. Removing models from the equation the 57-strong look collection was showcased on locals from Zurich – picked and photographed by Gvasalia. The shots, almost like modelling 101, explore the art of posing. “When a person poses, he presents himself in a particular way, often with the hope of impressing others,” is the explanation that was given, dating the original meaning of the word back to the 14th century. And the stars of the lookbook – among them two happy families, an accountant and an heiress – all seem to be out to impress.
As for the collection itself, super fans of the label may recognise some of their favourite pieces tweaked and elevated to be even better than the first time we saw them. The famous tea dresses from the SS16 collection (the one in the Chinese restaurant) back again but this time printed with tiny emojis. Elsewhere, the famous thigh-highs that you’ve probably seen on Rihanna were reimagined in gold satin and of course the DHL t-shirt returns in the form of a matching coat and hat, complete with a branded package to accessorise.
The collection wasn’t just a chance to reimagine old faves, but also a comment on the bravado that fashion shows often are nowadays. The lookbook is a move away from that, presenting in a much more self aware way. While we wait to see if Vetements will return to the runway it seems that Demna has one clear message. To quote from Rihanna’s ANTI, “pose bitch”.
Head to the gallery above for the full collection
